Canon AE-1 Program, Fuji Acros 100, pushed to 400. Scanned with an Epson V700. Taken on the road from Delhi to Pushkar, India. March 2012.
“I fucking hate stray dogs.” He was looking out the taxi window as two mangy dogs sauntered across the deserted New Delhi road. They appeared out of the darkness, illuminated by the white wash of our cab’s headlights. He turned back to me and added, “and they fucking hate me, too.” His flat, English accent added a distinct punctuation to those statements that suggested something more than a casual history lay behind them.
I had met my cab sharer in the baggage claim area of Delhi International, and while wandering about with a backpacking pack & a bulging camera bag, he approached and asked if I wanted to share a cab into the city. Though hesitant at first, it turned out that my hotel and his hostel were in the same area, and the decision seemed sensible enough. And it was 3:00am local time, so all other modes of transit were closed.
“I guess I just still have that student mentality – never get into a cab alone,” he told me as the cab turned left, then right, then left again through the endless maze of New Delhi streets. A quick glance at the taxi’s meter seemed to confirm his apprehension. “Fuck,” he muttered. “We should have agreed on a fixed rate,” and the meter jumped up another 100 rupees or so. “First rule of traveling in a foreign country, and we ignored it.”
I replied with something glib about jet lag and landing at 3:00am, but his attention had again turned to the outside where another stray dog was trying to dodge our cab.
I pulled out my phone to check the time. “Do you have maps on that?” my cab mate asked. “Because it’d be great to plot our route and watch us being driven in circles.” I laughed, though I was wondering the same thing. After several more lefts, rights, and traffic circles, he leaned forward to address the driver.
“Excuse me,” he said indicating to the meter (which was just passing 30km and another 100 rupee jump), “but how much further to Pajar Ganj?” The driver turned around, his watery, tired eyes ignoring the road speeding by. “Yes, sir?” he mumbled in labored English.
“How much further do we have to go?”
The driver pointed to the meter and repeated the same strained, “Yes, sir?” My cab partner sighed, and tried again, “Pajar Ganj. How much longer? How much time?” The driver pointed again to the meter, “Yes, sir.” This time, it was not a question.
It was now approaching 4:00am, and a tense silence filled the cab with my cab mate brooding, and every once and a while muttering about “ignoring rules” and “fixed rates.” Trying to change the subject, I asked him where he was from. “Sussex,” was his answer. I mentioned I had family in Leeds, knowing full well that Leeds was nowhere near Sussex, but hoping the connection of English ancestry would at least spark a conversation.
After a couple of minutes, he asked the same of me. United States, I said. California. Los Angeles. “Ah,” he said, “I’ve actually got family in, what’s the name of that bloody place . . . Burbank, I think.” I said that Burbank was nice. “Its a bit weird though,” he replied. “Everyone there is weird. And celebrities. What a bunch of fucking disappointments.”
I just shrugged, not knowing what else to say.